Pinot Noir

ALKO : Pinot Noir Fuchsenfeld 2010 by Pittnauer (Austria, Burgenland)

Producer: Gerhard und Birgitte Pittnauer

Wine: Pinot Noir Fuchsenfeld

Vintage: 2010

Grapes: Pinot Noir

Origin: Austria, Burgenland

Price range: 20-30€ (Finland, Alko) – 20,50€ in January 2014

Available at Alko: Yes (01/14), 452237

Pittnauer is one of the good producer of northern Burgenland. It is one of the 9 winemaker based in Gols that produce the locally famous PANNOBILE, a high quality blend of Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt developed to promote the Red wines of the region. You can find more information over here.

Pittnauer’s style is rather on the modern side (in a positive way), with nice deep extraction, soft tannins and a clever use of oak. No use of modern artefact, though, for this Biodynamic estate. No surprises about the Pinot Noir Fuchsenfeld: it is a well made, juicy and powerful Pinot! At this point I will tell you a bit about the region and the vintage. Burgenland is a very warm place in summer. The climate is close to a Mediterranean one because of the influence of the Danube. The autumn is also pretty warm but often humid in the morning, thanks to the Neusiedlersee. It is wonderful for botrytis and thus explain the long tradition of Ausbruch (in Rust) or TBA. This being considered, it is a very big challenge to produce quality Pinot Noir. This grape doesn’t like warmth at all and it is very prone to every kind of disease, especially rot provoked by Botrytis Cinerea. This leads to two conclusion: first, a good vintage for sweet wines like Ausbruch is a bad vintage for Pinot Noir ; second, a cold vintage (bad for the red wines) is good for the Pinot Noir. Example: 2010 is a very bad year for red wines from Burgenland. The ripeness was low or even bad. The summer was cold, the autumn was wet. This led to catastrophic red in some parts of Burgenland, Kollwentz, one of the top estate, has not produced any single vineyard wines… but this was great for Pinot Noir. No problem with ripening, preservation of typical aromas, great balance… Every single Pinot from 2010 I have tasted were on the top : Dürr by Kollwentz, Blauburgunder  by Triebaumer, Unter den Terrassen by Umathum, Pinot Noir Réserve by Alphart… This one is no exception.

The nose is intense, with a lot of berries and a hint of oakiness (as I said, a very clever use of oak). It is a deep, dense nose. Still very young. On find also a hint of pepper. The palate give the same impression with a nice spiciness in the finish, a long finish. The structure is quite powerful, soft acidity and soft tannins. It is a very good wine in the making and still very young. I expect it to be at its best in around 3 years.

Wineops’ rating: 82/100 ; + 5

Pittnauer, Pinot Noir Fuchsenfeld 2010 (Austria, Burgenland)

Pittnauer, Pinot Noir Fuchsenfeld 2010 (Austria, Burgenland)

ALKO : Pinot Noir Limited Edition 2011 by Montes (Chile, Casablanca)

Producer: Montes

Wine: Pinot Noir Limited Edition

Vintage: 2011

Origin: Chile, Casablanca

Price range: 10-12€ (Finland, Alko)

Available at Alko: Yes (09/13), 443697

Montes is a producer with good reputation in Chile. The wines, specifically the entry level might sometimes suffer from quite high ripeness and sometimes a too long oak ageing.

This Pinot Noir Limited Edition 2011 does not display this common defect. The nose is pretty brillant. It is very expressive and quite complexe. It starts with a display of intense dark berries, then comes the spices (a characteristic aroma in Chilean Pinot Noir). Slowly this develops into a touch of cacao and a very pleasant earthyness. At this point I am thinking that Montes nailed it!

However the mouth does not deliver. There the fruits and the aromatic complexity fades. It is a bit watery, very acidic and high in alcohol. Only in the finish dark cherries are coming back. It is not very enjoyable and leaves no desire for a second glass.

So it is a bargain for a Pinot Noir and it is a decent wine but this doesn’t blow ones mind. It might however benefit from a couple of year ageing… but I cannot say for sure.

Wineops’ rating: 59/100 ; 5 ?

Pinot Noir 2011 by Domaine de l’Idylle (France, Savoie)

Producteur : Domaine de l’Idylle, Philippe et François TIOLLIER

Vin : Pinot Noir

Millésime : 2011

Origine : France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie

Prix : moins de 8€ (France, Domaine)

Thématique de la semaine, du mois, le vin de Savoie s’impose. Il faut dire qu’outre la saison propice aux découvertes du genre, les dernières visites sur salons et en restauration m’ont révélé une région en grand progrès, offrant des rapports qualité prix exceptionnels. Le profil de ces vins est par ailleurs jouissif : du fruit et de la fraîcheur, un petit paysage alpin dans le verre !

Le domaine de l’Idylle, affilié vigneron indépendant (ce qui signifie que vous pouvez les rencontrer à Paris en novembre), se trouve à Cruet en Savoie. Je ne vous cacherai pas qu’en goûtant ce Pinot Noir, je n’attendais rien de particulier. Mais au contraire, j’ai trouvé un vrai beau vin, simple mais très bien fait.

Ce Pinot Noir livre donc un nez très franc, très net de fruit rouge frais, dominé par la cerise. Puis l’on découvre les subtilités propres à ce cépage, un côté terre mouillée, sous bois et un très légère touche poivrée. La bouche est fluide, juteuse et littéralement jouissive. Ce vin me rappelle les tables familiales de la campagne de mes grands parents, où l’on buvait à grandes lampées des vins francs du collier et point trop alcooleux. Ici, nous retrouvons cette convivialité chaleureuse, simple et évidente, mais avec un degré de raffinement qu’il faut dire, j’ai rarement rencontré au temps de ces grandes tablées. Ce vin est irréprochable, d’une longueur appréciable. C’est un très joli Pinot, sans doute pas d’une garde formidable mais qui égaillera en toute simplicité votre table ou votre apéritif, en compagnie d’un saucisson qui se devra de rendre la pareille (je pourrais ici vous recommander ceux des salaisons du Mont Charvin). Il représente l’archétype du vin de tous les jours, avec ce petit truc en plus, qu’il faut pour être intéressant.

73/100 ; 0 0

ALKO: Pinot Noir Tres Vinedos 2010 by Cartagena (Chile, San Antonio Valley)

During the past year the greatest surprise about Chilean wines has been the consistent quality of their Pinot Noir. Among all the wine I tasted, this is the variety that performed the best. Almost each was pleasant and easy to drink (which is far from being a general characteristic of wines from Chile). Today I will present you one of the most exclusive Pinot Noir of Alko’s selection.

Cartagena Pinot Noir Tres Vinedos 2010 is grown in the cool region of San Antonio. It is in the same place that you will find Viña Leyda which produce also very good Pinot Noir (Las Brisas and Lot 33). The wine is extremely expressive in the nose. Very stong fruit flavour emerge from the beverage, among them cherry and strawberry. Yet, being powerful, it is not so complex and it absolutely lack elegance. In the mouth, this is juicy and also very fruit driven. It has a very strong « fruitiness » in the sense that you feel almost that it is a fruit juice. Definitely the sugar is visible. Also you can find spiciness and little toasted aromas coming from a well managed aging period. But, there is a « but », this is very rough. This is too much, too strong, too forced. It feels like a doll with extra makeup. I don’t get this wine. In the end it is not so pleasant to drink. In my opinion, this is an extremely technical, oenological wine. They wanted to get as much fruit as they could (they succeeded) but as a result, the wine is totally awkward and not balanced at all. And to that extend, this is a failure. I do not recommend this wine and I don’t see it improve over the years. If you are looking for a modern style Pinot Noir, fruity and elegant, you can rather try K1 from Australia.

Wineops’ rating: 64/100 ; 0 0

Link to Alko: HERE

Alko : Matua Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010 by Matua (New-Zealand, Marlborough)

This Pinot Noir has recently been acclaimed in Finland, so I was curious about it.

Matua Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010 comes from the very famous Marlborough region in New-Zealand. This region is commonly considered as the best for Pinot Noir, although Central Otago is becoming a major contestant.

This wine is a classic Pinot Noir, with a little reduction on the nose. Obviously quite young, this reduction has its counterpart in the palate : the wine is little bitter and green in the finnish. Otherwise, it is consistent and clean. Little fruit, little earthy notes. Though very balanced I would not say it is the best Pinot ever, it is clearly less fun and worse than the other NZ Pinot Noir from Alko in this price range: Vicarage Lane. However, Vicarage Lane is from 2009 and the year difference is important as Pinot Noir tends to need aging even from New-Zealand.

Wineops’ rating: 70/100 , 0 +

For this very classic, little under ripe and not-so-exciting Pinot Noir, I would wait next year to taste it in better conditions. 

Alko’s page: HERE

Quick review : Pinot Nero Riserva 2007 by St. Michael-Eppan (Italie, Südtirol – Alto Adige)

Voici donc le dernier Pinot Noir de la série avant un petit récapitulatif demain.

Pinot Nero Riserva 2007 by St. Michael-Eppan est un vin issu d’une coopérative qualitative, chose qui est décidément de plus en plus commun. 350 membres, 2,5 millions de bouteilles… la preuve dans le verre que volume peut être synonyme de bon vin.

C’est un vin très fruité (les quelques grammes de sucres résiduels n’y sont certainement pas étrangers) qui ne renie pas son origine. Son nez complet laisse place à une bouche fraîche et délicate. Le boisé est très bien intégré, un vin a priori à son optimum dès à présent. Un très joli Pinot, facile d’accès.

Ma note : 79/100 ; 0 0

Pinot Noir Reserve 2008 by Fog Head (Etats-Unis, Californie, Monterey)

Ce Pinot Noir est une petite révélation.

Monterey est une AVA Californienne. Parenthèse à ce propos, l’AVA est un label purement géographique : il désigne une localité. Pas de prise en compte du terroir, des cépages… etc… Fin de la parenthèse. Monterey se situe un peu au sud de San Francisco, environ 200 km, près de l’océan. La zone, relativement fraîche (ça dépend évidemment des endroits) est principalement plantée des cépages septentrionaux que sont le Chardonnay et le Pinot Noir. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon (les incontournables) Riesling, Pinot Gris et Syrah complètent le tableau, loin derrière en terme de surface plantée.

Ce vin évite tous les clichés de PN de climat chaud et du Nouveau Monde. Pas de jus de fruit concentré, pas de confiture et pas de bois. En toute honnêteté, à l’aveugle, je ne l’aurai pas placé aux USA.

Le nez est fin, sur la rose, la cerise et ce fameux toucher du Pinot Noir, à la fois rustique et charmant. La bouche est un peu en retrait car elle manque un peu de longueur mais développe une trame nette et pure, jamais extravagante ou extraite. C’est vraiment une belle démonstration californienne.

Ma note : 82/100 ; 0 0

Très bon Pinot Noir, dont le style se rapprocherait d’un Marsannay. Classique, c’est un vin souple qui appelle des plats ni trop épicés ou ni trop acides. C’est un vin ouvert et prêt, pas de potentiel de vieillissement à explorer. Enjoy!